Why Portugal’s “amanteigado” cheeses deserve a place on every table

Portugal may be celebrated internationally for its wines, seafood and pastel de nata, but one of the country’s most indulgent culinary treasures remains surprisingly underappreciated outside its borders: its rich, creamy amanteigado cheeses.

The Portuguese word amanteigado translates roughly as “buttery”, but it hardly does these extraordinary cheeses justice. With their soft rinds and luscious interiors that ooze from the centre when cut open, they offer an experience that is closer to a fondue than a conventional cheese board staple.

The undisputed king of Portugal’s creamy cheeses is Queijo Serra da Estrela, produced in the mountainous Serra da Estrela region using the milk of Bordaleira sheep. Traditionally coagulated using the flower of the wild cardoon thistle rather than animal rennet, it develops an unmistakably silky texture and complex flavour profile. Rich and savoury, with hints of herbs and nuts, it is often enjoyed by slicing off the top and scooping the molten interior onto crusty bread.

Equally deserving of attention is Queijo de Azeitão, made south of Lisbon in the Setúbal region. Smaller in size but equally decadent, it possesses a slightly sharper character and a pronounced earthy aroma that reflects its terroir.

Further south, the Alentejo has also embraced artisanal cheesemaking traditions, with local producers in Serpa creating their own interpretation of buttery sheep’s and goat’s milk cheeses that showcase Portugal’s regional diversity.

For Portuguese families, these cheeses are more than a delicacy. They are centrepieces of festive tables, symbols of rural heritage and reminders of a time when food production was deeply connected to the landscape and the seasons.

For visitors discovering Portugal, tasting an amanteigado cheese may be one of the country’s simplest pleasures. Yet few culinary experiences capture the warmth, generosity and authenticity of Portuguese gastronomy quite so perfectly as breaking bread around a wheel of creamy, overflowing cheese.

Patrick Stuart

Contributor for the Portugal Resident