A sunscreen breakthrough after 20 years. Dermatologist explains why this is big

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved bemotrizinol, the first new sunscreen active ingredient to be cleared in more than two decades. The approval has generated excitement among dermatologists worldwide, not because it is an entirely new molecule, but because it brings to the US a sunscreen ingredient that has already built a strong reputation internationally.

What exactly is bemotrizinol? How is it different from existing sunscreens and can it really offer better protection against sun damage? Dr Rashmi Sharma, dermatologist at Fortis Vasant Kunj answers:

Bemotrizinol is a very good molecule. Dermatologists have been aware of it for years because it has been available in many countries outside the US. The biggest reason for the excitement is that it offers broad-spectrum protection. It blocks both UVA and UVB rays.

People are generally familiar with UVB because these rays are responsible for sunburn. But UVA rays penetrate much deeper into the skin. They are associated with premature ageing, pigmentation, loss of elasticity and also contribute to skin cancer risk. Bemotrizinol offers superior UVA protection compared to many existing sunscreen ingredients, and that is one of its biggest advantages.

How is it different from the sunscreen ingredients currently available?

Most sunscreens currently available use a combination of filters because individual ingredients are often specialists rather than generalists. Some protect well against UVB, others are better at UVA protection. Bemotrizinol is different because it covers a broad range of the ultraviolet spectrum. It protects against both UVA and UVB effectively.

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Another important feature is that it is highly photostable. In simple terms, it does not break down easily when exposed to sunlight.

This is important because some sunscreen ingredients lose effectiveness after sun exposure unless they are carefully stabilised. Bemotrizinol remains stable and can also improve the stability of other sunscreen filters used in the formulation. That means better and more reliable protection.

Does this translate into better protection for the skin?

Yes, particularly when it comes to protection against UVA rays, which penetrate deeply into the skin and are largely responsible for what we call photoageing. They damage collagen and elastin fibres, leading to wrinkles, sagging, fine lines and uneven pigmentation. Long-term UVA exposure is also linked to skin cancers. It cannot reverse existing damage. But as a preventive measure, it is a major step forward.

Sunscreens are often criticised for being greasy or heavy. Does this ingredient address that problem?

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One of the reasons people avoid sunscreen is that they dislike how it feels on the skin. Some formulations are greasy, sticky or leave a white cast. Bemotrizinol allows formulators to create sunscreens that are lighter and more elegant in texture while maintaining excellent protection. If an ingredient allows companies to make products that are cosmetically more acceptable, compliance improves and ultimately skin protection improves too.

There has been a lot of debate about the safety of chemical sunscreens. Is bemotrizinol safe?

Based on the available evidence, yes. This ingredient has been used in Europe, Australia and several Asian countries for years. So, we already have extensive real-world experience regarding its safety and effectiveness.

Bemotrizinol is also a relatively large molecule. Because of its size, very little of it is absorbed through the skin into the bloodstream. Studies have found no evidence of significant accumulation in the body or meaningful systemic exposure after regular use.

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The FDA approval is reassuring because it follows a rigorous review process. The ingredient has been evaluated for safety, efficacy, photostability, degradation products and environmental impact. So, from a dermatologist’s perspective, it has a strong safety profile.

How does it compare with mineral sunscreens such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide?

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide remain excellent sunscreen ingredients and continue to be recommended. They are mineral sunscreens and are especially useful for people with sensitive skin.

Bemotrizinol is a chemical sunscreen ingredient, but it broadens the options available to consumers. The goal is not to replace mineral sunscreens. The goal is to offer better choices and formulations so that more people use sunscreen consistently.

What should consumers remember when buying sunscreen?

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Do not become obsessed with one ingredient. Choose a sunscreen that offers broad-spectrum protection with SPF 30 or higher. Apply enough sunscreen. Most people use far less than the recommended amount. Reapply every two to three hours when outdoors, especially after sweating or swimming.

And remember that sunscreen is only one part of sun protection. Wear hats, sunglasses, seek shade whenever possible and use protective clothing.