A practical guide to visiting Brunei Darussalam

BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN — Majestic is one word to describe Brunei Darussalam, but that barely scratches the surface.

The sultanate on the northern coast of Borneo sits on vast oil wealth. Yet it wears its prosperity quietly: in the gleam of 24-karat gold-leaf domes rising above grand mosques, in the stillness of a river village that has stood for centuries, and in the dense tropical rainforests that blanket roughly 80 percent of its land.

It is also home to Southeast Asia’s largest amusement park. In its prime, Jerudong Park drew legends: Michael Jackson and Whitney Houston both performed here.

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However, for all its riches, Brunei leans into something simpler. Its tourism slogan calls it the “Abode of Peace,” and for travelers craving a slower, more contemplative kind of adventure, that promise holds.

For those planning to make the trip to Brunei Darussalam, here is a brief yet practical guide you can read before you go.

Getting around Brunei Darussalam

Brunei is among the few countries in the world where nearly every household owns at least one car. But in the historic water village of Kampong Ayer, the vehicle of choice has always been the motorized boat.

The Brunei River has shaped the nation since its earliest days, for farming, trade, and even diplomacy. Visitors exploring areas beyond the capital can hire water taxis to navigate its tributaries, an especially worthwhile trip for spotting proboscis monkeys swinging along the riverbanks or, after dark, watching fireflies illuminate the tree line.

On land, tourists can download Dart, Brunei’s local ride-hailing app, for convenient point-to-point travel.

Dress code

What to wear is one of the most common questions non-Muslim visitors ask before traveling to Brunei.

As an Islamic absolute monarchy that observes Shariah law, Brunei generally permits foreign visitors to dress as they choose, with notable exceptions.

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Modesty is expected at places of worship. Female visitors are advised to bring a light scarf to cover their shoulders and hair when entering mosques.

At popular sites such as the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, free robes and hoods are available for visitors before entering its ornate interiors.

Late-night eats: Gadong Night Market

Most shops in Bandar Seri Begawan close by 8 p.m. The Gadong Night Market fills that gap, offering everything from lamb skewers to nasi katok, the beloved Bruneian staple of rice, fried chicken, and sambal.

Come with cash. It remains the preferred, and in many stalls, the only, mode of payment.

Getting around on foot

Much of what visitors want to see in Bandar Seri Begawan is within easy walking distance. Staying within the City Centre makes it possible to explore Kampong Ayer, the Royal Regalia Museum, and the Brunei History Centre all in a single day.

Most departure points for Brunei River cruise excursions are also accessible on foot from the city center.

Getting to Brunei Darussalam from Cebu

Only three airlines serve Brunei International Airport: the national carrier Royal Brunei Airlines, Singapore Airlines, and Cebu Pacific.

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As of this writing, no direct flights connect Cebu and Brunei Darussalam. Connecting routes are available through Manila or Singapore.

Travelers already in Sabah, Malaysia, can also reach Brunei by ferry and bus, a slower option, but one that doubles as a side trip through the Malaysian state.

Brunei will not overwhelm you. It will not rush you. And perhaps that is precisely the point. In a region where destinations compete for spectacle, this small sultanate offers something rarer: a place that simply lets you be.