Wine talk – Red wine from a Vinho Verde classic: Soalheiro’s Oppaco

With so many choices, it can be dizzying. But each pass through the bottle section presents an opportunity to try something new, tempting as it may be to stick with the bottle you know and trust. This wine is one such example, and a surprising twist on a classic.

Chances are you have tried white wines from Soalheiro. A classic Vinho Verde producer, Soalheiro has been experimenting with Alvarinho for decades, producing white wines in a range of styles, from fresh and light to oak-aged and complex. Oppaco, however, is the first red wine from this classic Vinho Verde producer.

Aptly named for its opaque tone in the glass, the 2022 Oppaco vintage is a blend of two traditional Minho red wine grapes, Alvarelhão and Vinhão, combined with the classic white grape Alvarinho. Oppaco offers aromas of red berries, dried herbs like thyme and oregano, and notes of spice, with structure and tannins to balance the acidity from the cool Minho climate.

The red grapes for this wine underwent foot stomping in stone tanks and aged for 12 months, partly in stainless steel and partly in used French oak barrels. The Alvarinho fermented and aged in stainless steel before being blended with the red wines and bottled. All of this is to say that Oppaco is a play on traditional grapes combined to make a non-traditional wine.

A great option for summer dining, this wine calls for something grilled, rich, and deeply flavored. It will also age nicely in your cellar. Serve lightly chilled to 16ºC and pair with grilled seafood (sardine season has arrived, after all) or a sharp aged cheese.

Soalheiro Oppaco 2022 is available at Apolónia for €16.95.

Read more from Adrienne Salerno about wine: Wine Talk – A versatile red, perfect for grilling season

Adrienne Salerno

Adrienne Salerno is an American entrepreneur now living in Lagos. She founded Terra Doce, a unique platform where she celebrates Portuguese wines, offers exclusive experiences, tastings, educational events, and a wine club. +351 926 783 248 | [email protected] | terradoceportugal.com