Military Digest: Winter jersey out, battle jacket back in Army’s new dress code

The Indian Army’s latest dress regulations, made public a few weeks ago, introduced a few cosmetic changes, including the discontinuation of a pouch belt with a particular outfit. However, a bigger change that went unnoticed was the removal of the ubiquitous winter jersey. In its place, the battle jacket—discontinued decades ago—has been reintroduced with minor changes.

The new dress regulations state that Dress No 3A, comprising a full-sleeved angola shirt, woollen jersey, and dark olive green trousers, is valid till June 30, 2029, after which it will cease to exist. A transition period up to June 30, 2029, has been provided to enable all ranks to shift to Dress No 3B, the battle jacket.

While the Indian Air Force (IAF) and the Indian Navy battle jackets include a tie, the Army version does not. However, while IAF and Navy personnel wear ties even with jerseys, Army personnel do not. This may be why the tie has not been introduced for the new jacket.

The earlier battle jackets came with a tie as well as a webbed belt worn over the jacket. In the new version, a leather belt will be worn with the battle jacket, but under the jacket. No insignias, formation signs, commendation badges, or pouch belt will be worn with it.

A three-year transition period will be followed, during which either the jersey or the battle jacket can be worn. Once the transition period ends, the jersey will no longer be authorised as part of the Winter General Duty Dress. However, it may be worn during winter physical training.

From Bandi Jacket to closed footwear

While much has been written on the indigenisation of the dress, much of it is cosmetic and minimal. The pouch belt is still an integral part of the uniform and has only been discontinued with one dress, i.e. Dress No 5, which is a winter mess dress for officers.

In civilian wear for officers’ mess, the bandhgala was worn in the past. In fact, Lt Gen S K Sinha, the former vice chief of Army Staff, has written in his book that he even attended a formal dinner in honour of Field Marshal William Slim wearing an achkan and churidar pyjamas.

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However, a closed-neck coat or a Bandi Jacket over a full sleeve shirt is a new introduction. The regulations say the Bandi Jacket may be worn with or without the neck hook fastening (both patterns are authorised) and will be of solid, sober colour only. Matching formal trousers of sober design and formal closed footwear can be worn.

For women, sober-coloured saree or kurta-salwar or straight pant (ankle length) with dupatta may be worn. However, the regulations say that sleeveless kurtas and casual lowers like palazzo pants or cigarette pants cannot be worn. Also, only closed footwear will be worn with formal dress by women.

As far as carrying swords is concerned, the regulations say that reviewing officers on parade will not carry swords. Also, white gloves will not be worn during ceremonial parades, including by the reviewing officer.

The sword will only be carried by parade commanders, contingent commanders, and supernumeraries participating in major ceremonial parades, namely the Republic Day Parade, Independence Day Parade, and Army Day Parade, and while providing guards of honour to visiting heads of state and service chiefs or when the chief of the Army staff and equivalent is being accorded a guard of honour.

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However, the use of sword drills will continue to be taught at Pre-Commission Training Academies as part of heritage, ceremonial drill and instructional training. During Passing Out Parades, the sword will be carried by the adjutant and gentlemen cadets holding appointments as per established ceremonial practice.

Jewellery, cosmetics and other items

The regulations say that jewellery is not to be worn in uniform except for small earrings and a single engagement, wedding, eternity, or signet rings.

Piercing of the ears of female personnel is not to cause any abnormal disfigurement or deformity of the ears. Only one ear piercing that allows normal wearing of earrings is allowed, as per the rules. Earrings are allowed, provided they are a single pair of stud-style decorative ones, not exceeding 5 mm in diameter. No other type of fancy earring is permitted.

While in uniform, women personnel are not allowed to wear nose pins and no chains or sacred threads are specifically allowed around the neck. If worn, they should be concealed so that they are not visible outside the uniform. Married female personnel can wear ‘mangalsutra’, but it should not be visible outside the uniform.

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Lipstick and coloured nail polish are strictly prohibited for women personnel. ‘Bindis’ are also not permitted. The regulations say that vermillion may be applied to the parting of hair, in a manner that it is not visible when caps are worn.

The rules explicitly state that women personnel wearing the uniform should not wear any cosmetics or make-up. False eyelashes, eyeliner, kohl (kaajal), and application of facial make-up are also not permitted. Facial foundation cream that acts as a sun-protection agent can be applied and worn in the field, outdoors, or in operational areas, but in a conservative manner. Application of henna (mehendi) on hands, when in uniform or on duty, is also prohibited.

Fragrances such as deodorants, perfumes, etc., are also prohibited in uniform for all personnel. However, after-shave lotions may be used.

Brightly coloured watches or watch bands are not permitted. Pocket watches with visible chains are not to be worn with the uniform. Smart watches cannot be worn in areas or functions where prohibited.

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Body piercing or beading of any form is strictly prohibited for all Army personnel. Also, no serving soldier will be allowed to wear any beading or teeth jewellery adornments while on duty. Personnel are also prohibited from having or obtaining tattoos on any part of the body. Tribal troops with tribal symbols at the time of recruitment will be permitted to retain them, but no additional tattoos will be allowed after recruitment.

No personnel is allowed to wear any bracelet when in uniform. A single sacred thread can be worn on the wrist (multiple threads are not permitted) on the day of any pooja. Kada can be worn only by Sikh personnel and non-Sikh officers commanding Sikh troops. No religious markings or symbols can be worn or applied while in uniform.

The regulations also reiterate some basic norms which dictate the conduct of troops. Smoking in public places while in uniform is not allowed. Other prohibited acts include chewing gum while in uniform, putting hands in pockets or slouching, sauntering, or loitering while in uniform, keeping the top button of the uniform shirt open and not saluting when required, especially when using mobile phones.