Chaîne des Rôtisseurs celebrates Portugal’s culinary heritage

Between June 18 and 21, the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs de Portugal held its Grand Chapitre Chaîne Nature, a four-day celebration in praise of a cuisine rooted in nature and the values that underpin it.

Taking in Lisbon, the Bairrada and Porto, the programme drew members from across the globe Portugal, Australia, Germany, Switzerland, Israel, Italy, Thailand, Turkey, Ethiopia, the UK and the United States for a journey built on the Chaîne’s three guiding pillars: wine, food and friendship.

Proceedings opened on Thursday in Lisbon with a reception at the Altis Grand Hotel and a visit to the Casa do Alentejo, a building prized for its architecture in the heart of the capital. From there, the group took to Lisbon’s streets by tuk-tuk, pausing along the way for ginjinha and the inevitable pastel de nata — a fitting, easy-going introduction to Portuguese food. The evening rounded off with a fine dinner at Plano, courtesy of Chef Vítor Adão, which set the tone for the days ahead.

Friday moved the celebration to the Bairrada, where Luís Pato and Maria João Pato hosted the group at the Adega Luís Pato alongside Paulo Amado and Marie-Anne Ferran — Bailli Délégué and Chancelier of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs de Portugal, respectively.

Unsurprisingly, Bairrada’s famous suckling pig took pride of place at lunch, prepared by guest chef Ricardo Mugasa of restaurant Mugasa, whose technical skill has won him no shortage of admirers among his fellow Chaîne chefs. He cooked alongside Gonçalo Queiroz, Filipe Ramalho and Vítor Adão for a lunch to remember, with wine and sparkling wine service led by Échanson National Genny Queiroz.

That evening, the group headed to Vila Nova de Gaia, where members Lídia Braz and Fernando Araújo welcomed everyone to Proua for a relaxed night around the restaurant’s well-known marble counter. A spread of classic Portuguese petiscos — prawns, rissóis, tripe and more — made for an evening defined by warmth and good company.

Saturday began with a tour of the Cockburn’s cellars, one of the great names in Port wine, followed by lunch at Porto’s Mercado do Bolhão, in the “Culto do Bacalhau” space — a nod to the fish that runs through the heart of Portuguese food culture.

The day’s high point came that evening at World of Wine (WOW), where an elegant setting provided the backdrop for the Chaîne’s induction ceremony, welcoming new members into the fold. Bailli Délégué Paulo Amado used the occasion to thank Chancelier Marie-Anne Ferran for her work, and to award the Chaîne’s Silver Medal to Genny Queiroz, Pedro Ornelas and Vítor Adão.

A number of other members were recognised for their contribution to the Chaîne in Portugal, including Chris Mott. Jean Ferran and Paulo Amado received special mention, too: inducted more than 20 years ago aboard a rabelo boat on the Douro itself, the pair were now elevated to Commandeur. The ceremony also marked the admission of new Portuguese members, alongside fellow members from several countries who chose Portugal as the place to join the Chaîne.

Celebrations carried on into the evening on the terrace at Barão Fladgate, where members toasted with sparkling wine as the sun went down over the Douro to the strains of a fado group, before a polished gala dinner — paired with some of Portugal’s finest wines — brought old friends and new together in the spirit of fellowship that runs through everything the Chaîne does.

Sunday was given over to farewells, with a closing lunch at the restaurant Exuberante in the Hotel Altis Porto where young Chef Rafaela Ferreira offered us one last taste of Portuguese cuisine before bringing this Grand Chapitre to a memorable close.

The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, as an International Association of Gastronomy established in over 75 countries, always welcomes new enthusiastic members, amateurs and professional, who share the same values of quality, fine dining, conviviality, the encouragement of the culinary arts and the pleasures of the table.

If you would like to know more about the Chaîne, don’t hesitate to contact us by email [email protected] or visit www.chainedesrotisseurs.com

Article submitted by Marie-Anne Ferran, Chancelier du Portugal