A sea of devotees complete parikrama at the rooftop of the world

For 68-year-olds Jayanthi Gopinath and Rajshri Sheshnag, the Kailash Manasarovar Yatra is a dream come true. The Bengaluru-based twins had prepared for this day for months in advance, walking six kilometres everyday with a backpack weighing five kilograms. Their children also made sure that they regularly practised pranayama. “We kept giving them a pep talk all the time, telling them they can do it,” said Punitha, Jayanthi’s daughter. Punitha’s mother-in-law Lalithamma is the oldest member in the group. She is 69, and ecstatic that she is able to visit Mount Kailash at an advanced age. This week, not just the twins, but their children, nephew and the children’s spouses also accompanied them for one of the most important, arduous and challenging religious pilgrimages for the Hindus, Buddhists and Jains. Due to high altitude, rugged and harsh terrain and unpredictable weather, the Kailash Manasarovar Yatra is a test of the physical, mental and emotional strength of the devotees.

“Age is just a number. The challenges are in the head. Once you prepare yourself well physically and mentally for the journey, you can undertake it. For six years, we have been dreaming of this moment,” said Lalithamma, Jayanthi and Rajshri. Their children beamed with joy, standing beside them.

Mount Kailash is located in the Tibet Autonomous Region’s Ngari Prefecture in China, and rises over 21,778 feet above sea level. Its parikrama or circumambulation is considered sacred in several religions including Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Bon religion. It begins from Darchen, which is situated at a height of 15,338 feet. The entire circuit takes around two to three days for completion, with the highest point being the Dolma La Pass. It is situated at 18,471 feet. The tourists need to undergo prior physical tests and gradual acclimatisation. There are three primary routes for this yatra — through Lipulekh Pass in Uttarakhand, the Nathu La Pass in Sikkim and the Kathmandu route that also offers a quick helicopter ride to Hilsa. Tibet is known as the rooftop of the world.

Over 24,000 pilgrims

Jayanthi, Rajshri, and their six family members are some among close to 24,000 pilgrims who have visited Mount Kailash since May this year. The pilgrimage season will continue till September 2026. The numbers are up from 20,750 last year, when the pilgrimage was reopened for Indian devotees after a gap of five years following the Galwan clashes.

While the Indian government draws a lottery for selecting the devotees to travel for Kailash Manasarovar, the numbers are heavily tilted towards the ones submitted by private tour operators. Take the example of the ongoing pilgrimage season. Of the 24,000 pilgrims who have visited Mount Kailash so far, 23,000 have been brought by the private tour operators, the Chinese government said.

“This is a special year for the Chinese and Tibetan devotees. It is the year of horse and fire. It comes only once in 12 years. We opened the Hilsa border for pilgrimage for the Indians only last year, since the Covid period. Last year, through the entire season, we had 16,000 devotees from this route. But this year, the season has begun earlier. So, 12,000 devotees have come from Hilsa in the two months of May and June this year,” said Tsetan Namgyal, a tour guide since 2009.

Yatris circumambulating around Yam Dwar in Darchen, China.

| Photo Credit:

Vinaya Deshpande Pandit

Several devotees appreciated the efforts of the Indian and Chinese governments for making the journey hospitable in such harsh terrain. Good roads and infrastructure, medical stations on the parikrama route, support of local guides were some of the points highlighted by the devotees. But many raised concerns about the lack of hygienic toilet facilities on the parikrama marg at Dirapuk and Zuthulphuk. Responding to the concerns, Yu Jing, spokesperson of Chinese Embassy in India, said: “Many new eco-friendly toilets have been built. They are regularly cleaned and maintained. We understand that the yatris prefer flush toilets. However, in this mountain region area, flush toilet is not practical.” The devotees, however, contested the claim of regular maintenance, adding that both hygiene and privacy were key concerns.

“The Chinese government has been so welcoming. We have been living in China for many days. They have made very good arrangements for us. But we request them to look into the issue of the toilets,” said Ashok Sharma, a local BJP leader, from Delhi.

Devotion, strong will

The Chinese government recommends that the yatra should be undertaken by devotees who are aged less than 60 years. But that does not stop several Indian yatris from bringing devotion at the feet of Mount Kailash. For sexagenarian Vinodkumar Yadav from Delhi, this is his ninth yatra and he wants to come back for more.

At the Yam Dwar in Darchen, considered to be the doorway of the God of Death, Hindu and Buddhist devotees offer their prayers before starting the parikrama. They tie a sacred cloth, strike a gong, burn incense sticks, and keep offerings in the memory of the family members who have passed on. Buddhist devotees keep the skeletal remains of a yak’s horns and head as a means of gratitude after their wish is believed to be fulfilled. When Hindu devotees cross over from one side of the small temple of Yam Dwar to another, chanting 'Om Namah Shivay’, they believe they have crossed over from the Bhulok or earth to Kailash or the abode of Lord Shiva. A few metres before the Yam Dwar, groups of Tibetan riders wait with their ponies for the buses of yatris to arrive. Those devotees who cannot walk, avail of the pony service to complete the circumambulation.

“You don’t decide when you do this yatra. Mahadev decides when he will call you. And once his call comes, you are here at his doorstep in Kailash. I had decided that I will do this yatra only after my retirement. Which working person gets leave for 15 days? Especially when there are uncertainties about the visa and other procedures? But then my wife, my mother and my mother-in-law decided to undertake this yatra. It became my bounden responsibility to accompany them,” said Deepak, 48. He is the son-in-law of Rajshri Sheshnag.

Speechless, overwhelmed

A few kilometres away, at Lake Manasarovar, devotees said the experience of completing the circumambulation around Mount Kailash was “overwhelming”. As the turquoise water shone behind them, and Mount Kailash stood at a distance, they described the experience of meditating there as a divine experience. Manasarovar is one of the highest large, permanent freshwater lakes in the world, situated at 15,060 feet.

“You look at the Milky Way. You look at the crescent moon shining over Mount Kailash. When you close your eyes and meditate here in the midnight, you are transported to a different world. It is an indescribable moment,” said Delhi-based Meetu Verma. She thanked the External Affairs Ministry for the carefully curated experience, adding that the cooks and the doctors accompanying the devotees took good care of them. “They made sure that we were acclimatised properly at each stage, before we moved here,” said Ritesh Garg, a radiologist from Delhi.

Rajendra Rajpal, a retired government official, celebrated his birthday on the banks of the lake with fellow devotees after completing the yatra. He said the entire experience left him “speechless”.

Seeking more visas

Tour operators sought more visas from the Chinese government for the Indian devotees. Bengaluru-based tour operator Sitaram, who runs Shri Vasavi Tours and Travels, said that several devotees had to drop their plans due to visa delays. “Fifteen persons from one family had booked the tour with us from Bengaluru. They had to keep rescheduling thrice due to the delay in visa approval. Finally, when the visas came, only eight of the 15 came on tour. There were several such group bookings which had to be altered,” he said, urging the Chinese government to issue more visas during the pilgrimage season.

(The journalist was a part of the media delegation invited by the Chinese Embassy in India to cover the Kailash Manasarovar Yatra)